Reflections on the Italy not in guidebooks

One forgets, when reading guidebooks and choosing hotels, that a book can not tell you the smells, the people, the neighborhood.

Italy smells. Milan, Venice, Rome, particularly near transport – all smells dirty, unwashed etc.
Buildings, picturesque from a distant – are in disrepair with cracks and grubby walls up close.

Italy is falling apart.

I was surprised at the smog in Venice. Interestingly, not so noticeable in Milan and Rome, but it lay heavy across the skyline of Venice.

Rome – many parts, looks like it could do with a sweep. As you move into the outer areas of Rome you see the unpainted apartment blocks, rubbish, graffiti and dirt . . .